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BoF founder and editor-in-chief Imran Amed speaks to veteran modelling agent Chris Gay to understand the shifting power dynamics in the modelling industry and how models can build a career that stands the test of time.

Background: 

In the sometimes fickle and murky world of fashion modelling, the most successful models are taking control of their careers by bypassing the gatekeepers and creating direct relationships with customers, building and engaging their own fanbase.

“If you want real longevity in this business, you need to be building your community. It’s community that creates staying power,” says Chris Gay, co-chief executive officer of Elite World Group and president of The Society Management, which is marking its tenth anniversary this year. 

This week on The BoF Podcast, Gay sits down with BoF founder and editor-in-chief Imran Amed to discuss the shifting power dynamics in the modelling industry and why developing a point-of-view, something that a model becomes known for, is the key to long-term success.

Key Insights:

• The rise of social media has benefitted models who no longer have to rely on runway shows and brand campaigns to stay relevant. Models can now connect with their fans and followers directly on Instagram or TikTok. “Talent is no longer beholden to anybody. They have real power in their hands. So if you're not chosen for this particular fashion show … that doesn't mean momentum stops for you,” says Gay. 
• Social media platforms also help models create business relationships without the help of fashion’s traditional players. “It was a very small strategic group of gatekeepers in fashion that had an extraordinary amount of influence over all talents. … Now, it's entirely changed,” he says. 
• The power dynamics are shifting in other ways too. For some companies, working on a social ad with a well-known talent like Kendall Jenner or Liu Wen can have a bigger impact than a traditional ad campaign. “The next 10 years is really going to be about talent being a more effective and a more strategic distribution channel for everyone,” says Gay. 
• Gay’s advice to talent looking to break into the industry is twofold: build deep knowledge of the fashion industry and cultivate a style that essentially becomes your trademark. “Care about fashion. … It has nothing to do with the price of the items that you buy. But it really has to do with understanding collective style and what your own individual sense of style is,” he explains. 
• N.B Chris mentions Numéro magazine in regard to Liu Wen during the recording, the correct publication is Marie Claire China.

Additional Resources:

• New Chinese Models Are Reshaping Global Runways: Local agencies are signing more models that don’t have classical Han Chinese features with knock-on effects for who gets cast by megabrands in Europe and the US.
• Models, the New Power Publishers: Social media has turned fashion models into powerful digital publishers, some of whom have far larger audiences than brands or traditional magazines. 
• BoF 500 | The People Shaping the Global Fashion Industry

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