EP 36: Climb Strong Team — 2020 Training Camp Mashup
This is a mashup episode from the 2020 Climb Strong Training Camp. We talked about hangboard training, strength as a skill, climbing performance, takeaways from the training camp, and lessons learned from coaching athletes. Featuring: Chrissy Vadovszki, Jonathan Siegrist, Ken Klein, Carly Cain, Alex Bridgewater, Kathryn Perkinson, Charlie Manganiello, and Amanda Sempert. Support on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/climb-strong-team Nuggets: [Chrissy Vadovszki] 1:37 – Introduction 1:50 – Getting the team together and refreshing principles 3:32 – Strength is safety, “the strongest person isn’t the best climber”, and prioritizing sending 6:17 – Reflecting on the redpoint process, lessons from listening to Jonathan, and the vulnerability of second-tier projects 8:41 – Definition of Second Tier routes 9:21 – Paired exercises, and stoking the fire 10:27 – Chrissy’s take on the value for participants [Jonathan Siegrist] 12:13 – Introduction 12:35 – Jonathan’s mountain biking crash, shoulder injury, and recovery 19:04 – The goal is to clip chains, losing the plot, and getting to 100% try hard 22:35 – Stacking the odds in his favor, some of Jonathan’s strategies for success, and removing pressure 24:31 – Jonathan’s takeaways from the weekend [Ken Klein] 26:12 – Introduction 27:06 – Coffee for breakfast 29:09 – “Climbing is magic.” 30:57 – Why Ken thinks the word “impossible” gets used too much in climbing 33:07 – We all experience the same feeling, and the satisfaction of seeing people try hard 34:13 – Ken’s ‘perfect repeat’ drill he uses with newer climbers, and balancing repetition with trying harder moves 38:09 – The One-Touch drill 40:17 – Jonathan’s three-month breakdown 41:52 – Rock sense, and a reminder to do more rock climbing 44:16 – Hangboarding, 7:3, 7:13, and 6:10 repeaters, and max hangs 48:27 – Hold size and crimping on the hangboard 51:40 – Decreasing edge size vs. adding load 52:05 – Strength repeaters vs. max hangs, and the four-burner stove 54:59 – How Ken thinks about different fingerboard protocols depending on the climber and their goals 56:53 – “Three steps forward one step back.” 1:02:59 – Clarification about progressing hangboard sessions 1:04:28 – Owning the weight [Carly Cain] 1:05:54 – Introduction 1:06:06 – Working with a 16-year-old girl at the training camp 1:08:31 – Getting more comfortable with failing 1:10:44 – Reframing 1:12:08 – Learning to love bouldering 1:13:05 – Life is a work in progress 1:14:38 – Rifle! [Alex Bridgewater] 1:15:58 – Introduction 1:16:12 – One thing that holds us back, the importance of taking the steps, and pushing ourselves 1:18:47 – Social media, “can’t”, and confidence 1:19:48 – Carlo Traversi’s insight 1:20:47 – Positivity 1:22:14 – “Just go up there and try”, a becoming a better person 1:23:59 – “To the death.” 1:25:20 – Showing emotion, “Leave it up there”, and try hard [Kathryn Perkinson] 1:27:37 – Introduction 1:27:47 – Coffee for breakfast (again), fresh-baked bread, and breakfast moves 1:28:40 – Moving to Lander, working with Steve as an athlete, and joining the coaching team 1:30:06 – Philosophy 1:30:43 – Participating in the training camp 1:32:02 – Managing a finger injury as a coach 1:33:02 – A helpful reminder 1:34:08 – “We are all far more capable and more powerful than we can imagine.” 1:35:35 – “Climb second-tier routes.” [Charlie Manganiello] 1:36:43 – Introduction 1:37:03 – “Climbing is really important to people.” 1:38:29 – Keeping climbing in perspective, but not letting go of it completely 1:42:03 – Self-talk, lessons from golf, and putting our negativity away 1:45:08 – “This is where I’m at.” [Amanda Sempert] 1:48:07 – Introduction 1:48:39 – Kettlebell press, tension techniques, and energy links 1:51:08 – Hardstyle plank 1:53:47 – Kettlebell press cues 1:56:23 – The zipup drill, and practicing tension 1:59:00 – The ‘Quicken The Dead’ program, and trying alactic training [Outro] 2:01:37 – Gratitude, and how to support the podcast
